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Recent restaurant reviews

Chow, 445 Railroad Ave., Danville. 925-838-4510. Versatility is key for both décor and the restaurant overall, as if the goal is to create a place that feels welcoming to all types at all times. The space is perfectly suitable for a big rowdy group, but equally comfortable for a single diner. Chow's straightforward comfort food menu is conceptually strong. With more snacky items and appetizers, the Danville Chow varies a bit from the one in Lafayette. Pastas and salads fare particularly well in this kitchen. $$. (HHH on 11/07/08)

City Bistro, 30162 Industrial Parkway, SW, Hayward. 510-429-8600. Looking for a classic New York deli in the East Bay? City Bistro delivers with an ambitious amalgamation of deli soups and sandwiches, diner classics and several bistro-type entrees. Brunch is served all day. It feels more like a diner than a bistro, but portions are generous, latkes are delicious and dedicated deli lovers will love the New York authenticity of the super-sized sandwiches. $$. (HH on 2/20/09)

Esin, 750 Camino Ramon, Danville. 925-314-0974. The family-run eatery has moved and upgraded to a sleeker look, while retaining its savory fare and decadent house-made desserts. A few dishes hearken back to co-owner Esin DeCarion's homeland, Turkey, including the popular meze platter and phyllo-wrapped chicken breast. The food is fresh, unpretentious and made from high-quality, often local ingredients. Not every dish is polished, but the human effort is palpable and compelling. Despite the fancy new digs, it hasn't lost the family touch. Don't forget to save room for dessert. $$. (HH½ on 9/19/08)

Pican, 2295 Broadway, Oakland. 510-834-1000; www.picanrestaurant.com. From the pressed copper ceiling and the crimson art glass above the bar, to the deep browns and caramel tones of the dining room, Pican exudes warmth, comfort and an arty, chic elegance. The Southern-inspired menu brims with enticements, including a perfectly grilled Berkshire Pork Chop with zesty, neon yellow chowchow, a deep mahogany Buttermilk Southern Fried Chicken paired with a truly decadent smoked Gouda "Mac 'n Cheese," and divine desserts — Moon Pies and a Sticky Bun Bread Pudding with maple sugar glaze. Impeccable service. Intriguing cocktails and a full bar. $$$. (HHHH on 05/01/09)

Sidebar, 542 Grand Ave., Oakland. 510-452-9500; www.sidebar-oakland.com. Former ZAX Tavern chef-owners Barbara Mulas and Mark Drazek now dish at Sidebar, a new gastro pub in Oakland's Lake Merritt District that casts fancy spells on classic comfort foods. Try the Brined & Grilled Double Cut Pork Chop ($17), brined for two days in clove, anise, sugar and two peppers and then grilled to order over a ragout of soft, bacon-spiked cannellini beans. The Oven Roast Poussin ($18), a baby chicken, gets its kick from a marinade of fennel pollen and mustard seed before it's seared and finished in the oven. For dessert, try the ever-comforting Almond Joy ($6.50). $$ (HHH on 4/10/09)

Sideboard, 411 Hartz Ave., Danville. 925-984-2713. The quaint restaurant is a cross between a European cafe and cozy coffeehouse. Despite having counter staff, it leaves you feeling neither rushed nor impersonalized. The décor is homey, the staff attentive and the food largely spot on. Dishes range from breakfast pastries to French toast and salads to pasta and sandwiches. They are made using mostly organic, natural and locally produced ingredients. At any time of the day, try the hot chocolate — a specialty dark blend with homemade marshmallow and graham cracker crust rim. It's dessert in a mug. $$. (HHH on 1/2/09).

ASIAN/PACIFIC RIM

Asia Palace, 1460 Moraga Road, Moraga. 925-376-0809. At first glance, this comes across as a traditional Chinese restaurant in a very small place, but it's really a culinary experience not to be missed. The restaurant is packed between 6 and 7 p.m. daily for a reason. Everything we sampled was incredible. Favorites were chicken corn soup and honey walnut prawns. Sushi is also served. And it's a rare night when guests don't receive something for free — an appetizer, sushi plate, dessert, etc. $$. (HHH on 8/14/09)

Burma Superstar, 4721 Telegraph Ave., Oakland. 510-652-2900. With the addition of an Oakland location, this San Francisco-based Burmese restaurant cements its cult status. The flavor, texture and crunch of the Tea Leaf Salad, made with fermented tea leaves from Myanmar, is truly a feast for the senses, and the Burmese Style Curry with shrimp has the perfect tinge of spice. For those looking for an Indian influence, the Burmese Chicken Casserole is the way to go, as cinnamon and cardamom infuse the basmatic rice and juicy, on-the-bone chicken with sweet and savory flavors. $$. (HHH on 11/20/09)

Chu, 5362 College Ave., Oakland. 510-601-8818; www.restaurantchu.com. This is Asian dining at its most stylish — sleek, modern lines, dazzling black walls set off by modern art and crisply white, geometric plates, which make a stunning backdrop for the food to follow. That food boasts the same sleek clarity of flavor. This is not your run-of-the-mill Chinese place. There are no gloppy, dye-doused sauces — just clean, vibrant flavors and textures. Try the Wok Flame Rib Eye, Sun Bai Basil Chicken or citrus-flecked, garlicky You Zi Pepper Prawns. $$. (HHH on 10/16/09)

Hung's Kitchen, 500 Bollinger Canyon Way, Suite A-1, San Ramon. 925-735-8880; www.hungskitchen.com. The menu at Hung's is a story built on four generations of restaurateurs, with chapters in China, Korea, the Midwest and now San Ramon. Additions from China include homemade noodles, dumplings and buns that are a real treat. The scallion pancakes are among the best in the area. Also worth note is a family meal deal that features three dishes, scallion pancakes and soup for less than $30. Here you will find a solid option for modern westernized Chinese food. $$. (HH½ on 7/24/09)

Lemongrass Bistro, 501 Main St., Martinez. 925-734-8180. The ambience is lovely and the Southeast Asian fusion menu is a fresh blend of traditional and inventive dishes. Much of the menu is centered on Laotian, Thai and Vietnamese flavors, but you'll find lots of Indian flavors as well. The lemongrass samosas are worth a journey, as these miniature pastries are stuffed with lemongrass, spiced potato, snow peas, carrots and yellow curry. The décor is clean and youthful. $$. (HHH on 11/27/09)

Mahalo Grille, 425 Main St., Pleasanton. 925-462-2800, www.MahaloGrille.com. Mahalo has mastered fusion island cuisine under chef Josh Payton. His ability to blend flavors turns classic dishes into never-before-experienced tastes. The pupu platter appetizer is a meal in itself and a fine example of tropical fusion at its best. $$$. (HHH½ on 11/28/08)

The Peasant's Courtyard, 3195 Danville Blvd., Alamo. 925-362-0088. Chef-owner Rodney Worth has brought the rustic comfort food that has made Danville's The Pheasant & The Pear so popular to his new venture. The courtyard setting gives this a charming cafe feel. A couple of Worth's prized dishes — the pulled pork sandwich and bistro burger — are complemented by new salad and sandwich options. Classic American and European bistro dishes are mixed with Mediterranean flair. Portion sizes are ample. The breakfast hours are often crowded. $$. (HH½ on 6/19/09)

Sais T, 961 Bluebell Drive, Livermore. 925-294-8698. Don't let the strip mall setting put you off. This Chinese/Vietnamese restaurant draws a bustling lunchtime crowd eager to dip into piping-hot fried imperial rolls, fragrant pho brimming with tripe and meatballs, and a beautifully prepared dish called Green, Purple and White — a garlicky mélange of crunchy string beans, tender eggplant and creamy tofu that may end up converting people to vegetarianism. $ (HH on 10/23/09)

Sichuan Fortune House, 41 Woodsworth Lane, Pleasant Hill. 925-686-9828. Sichuan Fortune House is slowly coming into its own with efficient service and authentic flavors. It's peculiarly located on a side street, but still was packing a full house one year after opening. An ambitious menu features 138 items, including the very satisfying fiery eggplant pancakes. $. (HH on 10/24/08)

CALIFORNIA

Henry's, 2600 Durant Ave., Berkeley. Last year, this UC Berkeley haunt adjacent to the Hotel Durant received a face-lift. With a new dining room, menu and internationally minded chef, it will likely bring in a more sophisticated crowd than your average gastro pub. Ignite your appetite with the Turmeric and Ginger Mushrooms ($8). Roasted in herb butter, they are bright both in color and flavor. For entrees, it doesn't get more comfortable than the Spaetzle ($17). Chef Eddie Blyden's spin on the eastern European dumplings comes tossed with portobello mushrooms, braised rabbit, tarragon, Dijon, Hobbs bacon and Austrian Gruyere. Macaroni and cheese lovers should be aware that the Henry's version, made with sambal oelek, an Asian chile paste, is quite spicy. 510-809-4132. ($$$ HH½ on 5/20/09)

Lettuce, 1632 Locust St., Walnut Creek. 925-933-5600. A meal of soup, salad and sandwich here refreshes like a mini spa visit, beginning with glass pitchers of fruit-infused water and ending with homemade peach-blueberry galette. In the middle is a spalike menu with 16 salad offerings, six sandwich options and five soups. The dining room is breezy and mostly contemporary. Salads and sandwiches are made to order with fresh ingredients. Vegans, vegetarians and carnivores alike will delight in what's offered. $$. (HHH on 7/10/09)

FRENCH

Artisan Bistro, 1005 Brown Ave., Lafayette. 925-962-0882. Chef owner John Marquez brings his impressive resume to the Walnut Creek area and puts his distinctive flair on seasonal California French cuisine. He emphasizes local, organic and artisan ingredients. The salads are packed with flavor; the specialty sandwiches are delicious and the ultimate in comfort food; the vegetarian entrees are satisfying and healthy. The restaurant's design blends well with an understated downtown Lafayette and the menu resonates well with the area. $$$. (HHH on 5/1/09)

Bijou, 1036 B St., Hayward. 510-888-1092; www.bijouex perience.com. Bijou strives for chic, not classic, and serves up some pleasant surprises, although at times it seems to be at cross-purposes in establishing an identity. The décor is eye-popping, very downtown Manhattan for downtown Hayward, but with only a heavy mesh-chain drape between them, the noisy bar competes with the intimate dining room setting. The entrees are nicely seasoned, the sauces imaginative, the desserts delicious. But the small portion sizes left us wishing for more. $$. (HH½ on 10/31/08)

Chevalier, 960 Moraga Road, Lafayette. 925-385-0793. Chef-owner Philippe Chevalier offers upscale, mostly Provençal-inspired dishes in a somewhat overlooked strip mall location. The menu focuses on the South of France, while also offering a few traditional French favorites such as foie gras, French onion soup and coq au vin. Chevalier doesn't skimp on ingredients, sourcing high-end products such as Mishima Ranch Wagyu beef and Berkshire pork. But it's on the expensive side, especially considering the bones of this space feel more bistro than resto. $$$. (HH½ on 9/26/08)

Papillon, 37296 Mission Blvd., Fremont, 510-793-6331; www.papillonrestaurant.com/. This unique fine-dining restaurant is not too stuffy or pretentious yet still features white tablecloths and a tuxedo-clad wait staff. Some of the sheen has faded after 31 years in business — chipped plates, cracked tiles and frayed chairs show the restaurant's age; the service fell short of attentive — but the food is a cut above the rest. Chef Nittra Foreman infuses imagination in her specials, while keeping the regular menu items fresh enough to drive repeat business, evidence by the packed house on a Monday night. Her creativity with sauces and dressings are delightful. And save room for the out-of-this-world desserts. $$$. (HH½ on 1/30/09)

Post Meridian, 1568 Oak View Ave., Kensington, 510-525-1350; www.postmeridianrestaurant.com. White linens, dainty fresh roses and local artwork give this California French restaurant a friendly, neighborhood feel. The dining rooms are simple yet encourage a relaxed pace. The right ingredients are meticulously woven together in the meals, including the eight entrees offered. A prix fixe menu is available. Desserts are a joyful study in local produce with choices such as a roasted peach with vanilla-star anise syrup and Meyer lemon tart with raspberry coulis. As an added treat, homemade organic biscuits are available for your favorite pooches. $$½. (HHH on 4/21/09)

Rendez-Vous Cafe Bistro, 1111 Solano Ave., Albany, 510-527-4111; www.rendezvous cafebistro.com. Cool, stylized images of the Eiffel Tower, the Arc d'Triomphe and other Parisian landmarks march their way across eye-catching, cornflower blue murals in this cozy French bistro on the Berkeley-Albany border. No white tablecloths or stuffiness, just a hip little place to get steak frites, some coq au vin and a dash of panache. The menu features French comfort food — long-simmered stews, onion soup and particularly wonderful desserts, including a Lemon Cream Raspberry Millefeuille and decadent Chocolate Hazelnut Mousse Cake. Wine, Kir and beer. $$ (HH½ on 3/27/09)

INDIAN/MIDDLE EASTERN

Aroma Cuisine of India, 3418 Village Drive, Castro Valley. 510-888-9555. The North Indian menu does not assume a sophisticated knowledge of this cuisine and the kitchen is clearly catering to the spice-phobic American palate. You'll have to ask if you want serious heat. Vegetarians will find plenty of options. If you're new to Indian cuisine, this is a good place to start with many savory flavors. The simple, yet warm décor make this a quintessential neighborhood restaurant, and the wait staff worked the room efficiently and accommodatingly. $$. (HH on 11/21/08)

Mint Leaf Indian Bistro & Wine Bar, 1513 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley. 510-540-7900. The Indian restaurant with stylish atmosphere falls flat of what diners expect from Deepak Aggarwal, who brought Khana Peena to Berkeley. Dishes with self-described "innovative, creative flair" actually add up to no more than California flourishes, such as grilled organic vegetables. The tastiest dishes are those taken directly from the North Indian canon: samosas, papadum, dal, also Gobi, biriyani and tandoori meats. We also found when we tried to order that the kitchen often runs out of desserts and drinks. $$. (H½ on 10/17/08)

Turkish Kitchen, 1986 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley. 510-540-9997. This is a restaurant Berkeley seems sincerely predisposed to like. Chef/owner Mehmet Vural fleshes out a menu of authentic Turkish specialties with a satisfying level of detail. The best things balance vivid flavors with the comforting elements of home cooking. Thick bread, baked in-house by Vural's wife, Serife, is like a chubby, pocketless pita. Kavurmali is a portion of the yeasty bread stuffed with chunks of lamb. Pizzalike lahmacun has all the elements of a fantastic street-food nibble. Turkish tea and coffee; small collection of wine and beers. $. (HH½ on 02/28/08)

Oasis Grille, 780 Main St., Pleasanton. 925-417-8438. Oasis is a refreshing change from the swarm of Italian eateries in Pleasanton. Its Middle Eastern cuisine blends Mediterranean and Afghani influences. The borani is as good as advertised. The salads are generous in portion size. The vegetarian components are impressive in otherwise pleasant but not striking entrees. The grilled chicken kebab was among the best offering. The menu does offer a lot of flexibility. It could use a little more flavor but is still nicely priced for the area. $$. (HH½ on 05/29/09)

ITALIAN

Bella Ristorante, 5458 Ygnacio Valley Road, Concord. 925-524-0733; www.bellaristorante.com. Abdel Redouane has done it again, putting similar cuisine from his popular Luna restaurant in a more casual setting. You won't find tablecloths here, but you will find his exquisite Mediterrean-style Italian dishes. Classics here are served with a twist, such as lasagna with half marinara and half cream sauces. Flavors are authentic — try anything with the pesto. Entrees are garnished with a unique shredded and fried vegetable slaw. Desserts are divine with Redouane's trademark artistic-designed sauces. With attentive service, Bella is a keeper. $$. (HHH on 4/24/09)

Fiore, 5100 Clayton Road, Suite A14, Concord. 925-969-1887. Expect the full European experience, even if this Italian restaurant sits in a strip mall. Chef Habib Jacifi has stamped his own ingenuity on dishes you might have enjoyed at Concord's Luna Ristorante, owned by Jacifi's uncle. He has spiced up his menu with Mediterranean characteristics, classic seafood dishes and carnivorous pleasures, including a gorgeous grilled flank steak and polenta wedge drenched in a Cabernet demiglaze. Also of note are the sweetness of the spaghetti al pomodoro and smooth finish of the pesto penne. Just be prepared to linger over the delectable cuisine, because like many European restaurants, Fiore takes its time when it comes to service. $$. (HHH on 9/5/08)

La Veranda, 444 Railroad Ave., Pittsburg. 925-427-0444. Spot on service, excellent Northern Italian food and idyllic ambience are enhanced by a charming and friendly atmosphere. Guests feel right at home in the intimate dining room or sleek bar area, especially as the noise level remains unobtrusive. The antipasto choices are well-rounded but not overwhelming; the garlic bread is simple in appearance but delicious. The entrees combine fresh ingredients with classic Italian tastes; attention is paid to the sides (the garlic mashed potatoes are exceedingly creamy); and the wood-fire oven baked pizzas are crisp. Plus, save room for the divine chocolate ganache. Service is attentive without being overbearing, making this an all-around exceptional dining experience. $$. (HHH½ on 3/13/09)

Mangia Mi, 406 Hartz Ave., Danville. 925-831-3276; www.mangia-mi.com. Comforting Italian favorites at reasonable prices draw crowds to this small restaurant. The décor is contemporary but parts of the menu feel like a throwback to the 1950s, when Americans first fell in love with Italian food. It's a place to become reacquainted with old friends such as meatloaf, hand-rolled gnocchi and prosciutto panini. Originally opened as a made-to-order gourmet takeout restaurant, it's now primarily a dine-in staple with a wide swath of customers. $$. (HHH on 6/26/09)

Marzano, 4214 Park Blvd., Oakland. 510-531-4500. The folks behind Garibaldi's have tossed the white tablecloths for a small, focused menu with nothing on it above $15. Neapolitan pizzas are the specialty, as the staff is one of few in the Bay Area to be certified with Verace Pizza Napoletana Association to make Naples-style pizza. We were delighted with the oval and oily Winter Pie, pillow-soft roasted pumpkin, puffs of ricotta, crispy pancetta and black leaf kale on walnut pesto. Non-pizza standouts include the "angry" Wood Oven Braised Chicken All' Arrabbiata, and the Crisp Fried Chestnut Pumpkin Arancini, fried risotto balls that are the epitome of Sicilian street food. An impressive list of affordable wines made from grapes indigenous to Italy rounds out a pleasing meal at Marzano. $$ (HHH on 1/16/09).

Melo's Pizzeria and Pasta, 4433 First St., Livermore. 925-371-4499; www.melospizzapasta.com. Melo's is back in the family. Brothers Aldo and Louie Senor repurchased and after an extensive renovation, the pizzeria reopened and is better than ever. The menu is impressive and daunting. With 29 pasta choices, including six signature dishes, repeat visits are a must. The bruschetta is divine with tomatoes that mimic the seasoned, tangy sweetness of sun-dried tomatoes while still tasting fresh. The cannelloni packs a rich combination of sausage, beef and cheese and finishes off nicely with a robust meat sauce. But this is a pizza place, and Melo's delivers authentic New York-style with thin, crisp crust, just the right amount of sauce and no skimping on the toppings. Try Melo's combination or the popular four-cheese Margherita. Open daily 11 a.m.-9 p.m. $$ (HHH on 8/08/08)

Trattoria Corso, 1788 Shattuck Ave., Berkeley. 510-704-8004. Here you can experience all the excitement of a true Florentine trattoria. Ingredients you've eaten all your life taste entirely different and foods are regrouped and served in several courses (gone is the large entree). Old-school authenticity is what sets Corso apart from so many Italian eateries. It wants to be a trattoria, complete with the casual atmosphere and lower prices the word implies. In some ways, it's too casual, but a meal here is like getting a taste of Florence, just a little closer to home. $$. (HHH on 8/22/08)

JAPANESE

MEXICAN

Cocina Medina, 5005 Lone Tree Way #A, Antioch. 925-753-1968. The restaurant's sunny Mexican charm is accentuated by the authentic flavors of family recipes from Guadalajara and excellent service. It's easy to see why Cocina Medina thrives with repeat business. The straightforward menu features accessible ingredients that are still distinct. The fajitas are a house specialty and the classic combos are a great way to sample the variety of flavors served up here. $$. (HH 1/2 on 4/17/09)

NEW WORLD/CARIBBEAN

Miss Pearl's Jam House, Jack London Square, 1 Broadway, Oakland. 510-444-7171. Fans of the original Miss Pearl's will relish that old favorites such as black-eyed pea fritters and crispy catfish "fingers" now mingle with new offerings, including the impish "mini skirt with nice buns" (three skirt steak sliders). The menu is energetic and eclectic, but most options are more familiar than exotic and lacking in a bold taste to match their descriptions. The restaurant's design channels whimsical Miss Pearl and makes the most of electric Bay views. $$$. (HH½ on 10/10/08)

NIGHT LIFE

Cock-A-Doodle Cafe, 719 Washington St., Oakland. 510-465-5400. Lazy summer nights call for festive food with heat and cocktails to cool you down. The combination is a sweet one at this Latin-inspired brunch spot that offers salsa tunes, an outdoor mojito bar (tamarind or hibiscus, you won't be sorry) and tapas with twinges of Peru and Cuba through September. Try the Sopa de Tinga corn cakes topped with braised shredded chicken in a smoky chipotle marinade. $$. (HH on 7/25/08)

Marc 49, 4915 Telegraph Ave., Oakland. 510-652-2100. If you know how to order acidic, food-friendly wines, then the salads and sandwiches menu at Oakland's latest wine bar won't stump you. Pate, bruschetta and a cheese plate round out the food options, while the list is filled with a healthy degree of usual-suspect, affordable selections. The dining room is a Cost Plus take on Moulin Rouge, with jazz that coos steadily through the half-dozen tables and into the romantic patio out back. Not a bad spot for a Tuesday glass and a snack. $. (HH on 7/11/08)

SEAFOOD

Fin's Restaurant and Bar, 1950 Grant St., Concord. 925-687-3467. www.finsconcord.com. Dining here was a tale of two experiences. Before the dinner rush, service was impeccable and the appetizers of calamari rings and crab and spinach dip were delicious. During the rush, service became harried, side dishes were cold and undercooked and the kitchen ran out of items, including one of the two desserts. The menu is packed with tasty dishes and has a fondness for crab. It's just best to visit before 6:30 p.m., especially on the weekends. $$. (HH½ on 10/30/09)

Flying Fish Grill, Highway 92 and Main Street, Half Moon Bay. 650-712-1125. Located on a dirt lot, this gem is hard to find but worth it for the legendary fish tacos, grilled or fried. The shack is cozy, colorful and affordable but a step up from a fish taqueria stand with its fresh fish dishes, clam chowder, fish wraps and sandwiches. Fresh and healthy food top the menu. The sweet potato fries are a nice surprise, too. $$. (HH½ on 12/5/08)

Walnut Creek Yacht Club, 1555 Bonanza St. (at Locust Street), Walnut Creek. 925-944-3474; www.wcyc.net. After a major expansion, this restaurant's appeal — more evident than ever, now that the space is bigger — is to wrap fish-house traditions in a vivid persona that rarely seems to overwhelm the basic concept. On any given day, you can order one of a dozen types of fish and get it grilled, blackened or sauteed. Among them: a pillowy slab of Alaskan halibut, a surprisingly delicate hunk of catfish. The tiny bay shrimp in the seafood cocktail come from a packing company in Fort Bragg. Another menu fixture, the wedge of iceberg lettuce, is infused with a complex wallop of flavor. $$$. (HHH on 6/27/08)

SPANISH

Barlata Tapas Bar, 4901 Telegraph Ave., Oakland. 510-450-0678, www.barlata.com. The food, décor and Temescal neighborhood all gel in inviting fashion at this tapas bar. It has a quiet confidence that unexpectedly sweeps you off your feet. The vibe is welcoming with a lot of natural light and an open kitchen. The menu is surprisingly long, with more than 50 changing items. Spanish favorites are plenty; seafood fans and vegetarians will find satisfying options; and obscure dishes will appeal to the adventurous. $ (per small plate). (HHH on 6/12/09)

Cesar's, 4039 Piedmont Ave., Oakland. 510-985-1200, www.barcesar.com. This Oakland outpost of the venerable tapas place has a similar feel to its Berkeley sister, what with the outdoor tables and blue and aqua mosaic tile. But its airier interior and fun menu — breakfast for the morning crowd, charcuteria and heavenly tapas, rich in Spanish heritage and ingredients, paprikas and peppers, seafood and house-cured meats and olives — make it even more enticing. Plus, it's easier to park. Don't miss the Sirloin Steak a la Parrilla, crisply fried calamari and divine bread pudding with orange-caramel sauce. $$ (HHH½ on 9/4/09)

THAI/VIETNAMESE

Anchalee, 1094-96 Dwight Way (at San Pablo Avenue), Berkeley. 510-848-4015; www.anchaleethai.com. Bangkok-born chef Chuck Natasiri — longtime cook at Amarin, a popular Thai restaurant in Lafayette — has struck out on his own in West Berkeley, in a handsome space with a touch of the serene. Named after the chef's wife (she works as a server), Anchalee excels at a style of cooking mostly popular with non-Thais: classic dishes with bright flavors, in which the bolder tastes of fish sauce and chiles are kept in check. Natasiri has a way with vegetables, some of which are organic. Beer and wine. Open for lunch and dinner daily. $$. (HH on 4/25/08)

Bronze Buddha, 5434 Ygnacio Valley Road (in the Clayton Valley Shopping Center), Concord. 925-524-0768. With a mirrored ceiling, white upholstered chairs, and golden walls and chandeliers, Bronze Buddha has an atmosphere of luxury. The real pampering, however, starts with the service. While the menu sets itself apart with upscale California-fusion offerings, our favorites were the classics, such as the curries, Tom Kha (coconut soup) and Pad See Ewe (chewy flat noodles with dark soy). With prices a notch higher than other Thai restaurants, more attention needs to be paid to the basics, such as properly cooked rice. $$. (HH½ on 6/06/08)

Erawan2, 414 Ferry St., Martinez, 925-313-9185. The cool pachyderm artwork and the wooden menus with their elephant carvings grabbed our attention first at Erawan2 — an offshoot of the popular, 3-year-old Thai restaurant in Walnut Creek. But that menu brims with enticing, agonizing options. Pineapple curry prawns over jasmine rice? A creamy Red Curry, with coconut milk, fresh basil and just enough heat to bathe the tender strips of beef, bamboo shoots and delicate vegetables? Or the beautifully marinated chicken medallions? All delicious. Wine and beer. $. (HHH on 2/13/09)

Pho Asian Bistro, Hacienda Crossing, 4920 Dublin Blvd., No. 420, Dublin. 925-833-0746; www.phoasianbistro.com. With no more than a dozen tables, Pho Asian Bistro could have been a classic hole-in-the-wall, except that the combination of creamy, pale yellow walls, mosaic tile and simple art — white figurines and colorful parasols — is so darn chic. And the menu, which boasts a delicious array of appetizers, steaming bowls of pho, savory rice plates with grilled meats, and one of the best desserts we've had anywhere, is a godsend not just for the palate, but the pocketbook. Don't miss the outstanding Rock-n-Roll Beef over Rice — tender bites of steak, sauteed peppers, a small dome of savory rice, and carrots and Daikon radish cut into delicate flower shapes — or the golden, crisp dumplings filled with molten banana slices, drizzled with chocolate and served alongside rich vanilla ice cream liberally laced with crisp, toasted coconut shreds. Open Tuesdays-Sundays for lunch and dinner. Beer and wine. $ (HHH on 1/9/09)

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