When it comes to seasonal foods, most people think of tomatoes, not seafood. But there are fish with seasons, too, and wild Pacific salmon is one of them.

Pacific salmon is in season from late spring to late summer, said Alex Ortiz, a fishmonger at Fish Tales in Brooklyn. While you can sometimes get the fish frozen year-round, he said, if you want it fresh, buy it now. The fish is at its fattest and most delectable.

So I did just that, choosing four fat, glistening pink fillets of king salmon, which is on the plumper side of the species. It is famous for its dense flesh and soft, silky texture (which comes at a cost, alas, of about $23 a pound).

Usually when I have pristine, pricey fish, I like to keep things simple. A quick sear in a pan or under the broiler, a little salt, pepper and lemon -- that's all you need.

But this time I wanted something a bit glitzier. I was having friends over, and a plain piece of fish, no matter how regal, seemed too spartan.

So I paired the fillets with another seasonal treat: fresh local blueberries.

The berries would have been cloying with the fish by themselves, so I simmered them with white wine and vinegar, creating a sweet-and-sour sauce inspired by Italian agrodolce.

I also added shallots, cinnamon and thyme for complexity, and a touch of honey to round everything out. It turned out to be summery and bright tasting, yet deep and nuanced at the same time. The acid cut

through the fish's richness, while the fruity sweetness highlighted the saline succulence.

What really floored us, though, were the colors: pink from the fish and purple from the berries. It was a stunning dinner as well as a delicious one, two seasonal delights on one plate.