The blocks and blocks of office parks in North San Jose may not be the place you think of when you're craving wonton soup.

But Tai Kee Won Ton is serving up comforting bowls of dumplings and noodles right there, in a corridor of cubicle farms between interstates 880 and 680. It's worth navigating your way there for Taiwanese-style wontons and noodles.

The real attraction here are the house-made wontons. The wonton wrappers are melt-in-your-mouth light. And they're stuffed with ground pork filling that's lightly seasoned with bits of ginger and garlic. The wontons were best showcased in the simple but tasty Taiwanese wonton soup ($4 for a small bowl, $7.50 for large). My companions and I shared a small bowl, which came with five plump dumplings floating in a clear, light broth.

Cubes of tofu are deep-fried to a light crisp and drizzled with a savory plum sauce at Tai Kee Won Ton in San Jose. (Photo by Natalie Martinez)
Cubes of tofu are deep-fried to a light crisp and drizzled with a savory plum sauce at Tai Kee Won Ton in San Jose. (Photo by Natalie Martinez) (natalie martinez)

The menu offers more jazzed-up versions of the soup: with beef or noodles or cranked-up hot peppers. I was happy with the simplicity of the basic model.

If you can't decide between noodles or wontons, try the Taiwanese wonton noodle soup ($8.99), which is another variation on the wonton soup theme -- with a generous portion of noodles squeezing into the bowl along with the dumplings. The hearty noodles are also made in-house.

You also could opt for one of the combination plates, which feature a larger entree and a generous cup of wonton soup. Our choice was the house special dried noodle combo ($9.99). We got a nice portion of those chewy noodles, lightly coated in a mild hoisin-based sauce. It was topped with a sprinkling of seasoned ground pork and scallions. The accompanying cup of wonton soup was our favorite, with just the simple dumplings and broth.


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We rounded out the meal with a plate of deep-fried tofu ($3.99). Hearty cubes of tofu were fried to a light crisp and drizzled with a savory plum sauce.

We were pleasantly surprised by the green onion pancake ($4.99). It was crispier and richer than the spongier ones we'd all eaten at other places. The portion was smaller than expected but provided a nice texture contrast to the soft wontons and chewy noodles. The pancake comes with a lovely dipping sauce that was full of flecks of hot pepper flakes and minced ginger.

Tai Kee Won Ton's service is quick, catering to the busy work-lunch crowd of its neighborhood. Our small group was quickly seated on the weekday afternoon we visited. After taking our order, our waitress brought over a stack of small bowls and spoons, just in case we wanted to share our dishes family-style. It was a good idea.

We were digging into the steaming bowls a short while later. All of it, fast and efficient -- with enough time to get us back to our respective workdays.

Contact Natalie Martinez via food@mercurynews.com.

Tai Kee Won Ton

2092 Concourse Drive,
Suite 1, San Jose;
408-432-8889
Hours: 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-9 p.m. Mondays-
Fridays; 10:30 a.m.-9 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays
Types of food: Taiwanese soups and noodle dishes
Average meal price:
$10-$12
Good choices: Wonton soups, dry noodle dishes
Drinks: Fountain drinks, beer, wine
Next-day edibility:
Most would reheat nicely.
Who goes there: Local
office workers, families, wonton fans
Credit cards: All major ones
Parking: In strip-mall parking lot

Restaurant reviews are conducted anonymously. The Mercury News pays for all meals.