Headstones are pockmarked, their inscriptions faded. Stone slabs that have covered tombs for centuries are crumbling. White marble has turned gray, likely from the acrid smoke that spews from a nearby oil refinery.
One of the oldest Jewish cemeteries in the Western Hemisphere, Beth Haim on the island of Curacao, is slowly fading in the Caribbean sun.
Beth Haim was established in the 17th century in the capital of Willemstad and is considered an important landmark even on an island so rich in history that its downtown has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. The sparsely populated island of nearly 150,000 people just north of Venezuela is known today mostly as a diving destination or for its namesake
Fleeing to Caribbean
With its lavish monuments and multilingual epitaphs, Curacao's cemetery helps tell the little-known history of Jews in the Caribbean who fled Spain and Portugal to escape the Inquisition aimed at ridding the Christian nations of Jews, Muslims and others people deemed heretics. Many of the exiles first found refuge in the Netherlands, with their descendants later settling in this former Dutch colony, now a highly diverse society and a semiautonomous part of the Kingdom of the Netherlands.
But the landmark is in danger. The steady erosion, likely intensified by the proximity of the antiquated refinery, is now considered unstoppable,
"Believe me, I wish there was something we could do to protect the cemetery," said Maduro, whose family came to Curacao in the 1600s and has 75 to 100 ancestors buried in Beth Haim. "It is beyond the point of repair."
The Curacao cemetery is among several at-risk burial sites that "preserve the cultural, ethnic, biographical and religious history" of Jews in the Caribbean, said Rachel Frankel, a New York architect who has studied and documented historic Jewish sites throughout the Americas, including burial grounds in Jamaica and Suriname.
The Curacao congregation is considering preserving the cemetery electronically by setting up a website with records and photos, Maduro said. The plan for a digital memorial is still in development, but a lower-tech effort has put replicas of 10 of the most ornate headstones on display at the Jewish Historical Museum in Willemstad.
Besides being sacred sites, Frankel said, the cemeteries help document the Caribbean migration of Sephardic Jews whose forefathers fled or were expelled from the Iberian Peninsula
On some islands, colonial Jews numbered in the hundreds, and other locations in the thousands, Frankel said. By the mid-20th century, most of the congregations had declined, but the cemeteries that in some cases had accepted burials for more than two centuries remained.
The Jewish community in Curacao dates back to the 1650s, with the arrival of Sephardic Jews from Amsterdam who had previously fled Spain and Portugal. At its peak, in the late 1700s, the Jewish community on the island numbered about 2,000.
They established the Mikve Israel-Emanuel Synagogue, which is billed as the oldest continually operating synagogue in the Western Hemisphere, as well as Beth Haim cemetery. The synagogue today has about 350 members, of which only about 200 actually live on Curacao.
Remains must stay
Congregation members have determined more than 5,000 people are buried at Beth Haim, but only a third of the inscriptions are legible in a mix of languages that includes Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch and Hebrew. The oldest confirmed inscription is from 1668 on a stone made of potter's clay.
Jewish law forbids disturbing remains so moving the cemetery to another part of Curacao that would be less threatened by refinery smoke is out of the question, Maduro said.
Occasionally Beth Haim cemetery is visited by tourists from the cruise ships stopping at downtown Willemstad. Maduro hopes future visitors will be able to learn more on the hoped-for website.
"Not that we can preserve (the cemetery), but we are trying to make it easier for people to know what's there and who is buried there," he said.